You have already tried. The powder, the green pad, a long stretch bent over the basin with your forearm doing all the work. While it is wet the orange looks like it is going. Then the sink dries and the ring is exactly where it was. That is not a sign you were too gentle.

Rust is not grime sitting on top of the surface. It is iron that came out of your water and bonded into it, and a bond does not come off under pressure. What the pad wears down is the finish around the stain, which is why an old rust ring often looks worse the more attention it gets. It has to be dissolved, not sanded.

The cling is the part that matters, and it is a geometry problem. Almost every rust stain in a house sits on a slope or a wall: the run under a tap, the streak below a toilet rim. A thin liquid slides off and the chemical never gets its contact time. A gel stays where you put it, so the stain sits under the product instead of the product sliding past it.

That changes the shape of the job. Spray, leave it, rinse. The temptation is to go at it with a cloth partway through, and that is the one thing to avoid. Wiping takes off the layer doing the work.

Here is the limit. It removes rust and nothing else. If the mark you are aiming at is soap scum, hard water film, or old grime that happens to look tan, this will sit on it and do nothing, and you will blame the bottle for a stain it was never built to touch.

The other thing it does not do is fix why the stain is there. The iron in your water keeps arriving, so clearing the ring today is maintenance, not a cure. And where the finish is already worn, the rust has soaked in below it. Expect it to go lighter, then stop.

What you are buying is the end of the scrubbing, not the end of the iron.